1.1 Introduction:

   Cosmetic brushes are the most important beauty tool that you can own. With proper care, high quality cosmetic brushes can last a lifetime. We feel this report is necessary because although cosmetic brushes are common, the actual knowledge pertaining to their construction, care & usage is very limited.

  The purpose of this report is to provide a foundation of knowledge to assist in understanding how different materials used in cosmetic brush construction, types of construction and methods of usage effects brush quality & life span. These topics will be discussed in great detail here to assist you in intelligently selecting a product line and to properly inform your customers on proper care and usage techniques. Although some of the terms may apply to all kinds of brushes, the information below applies more to cosmetic brushes than industrial or artist brushes.

2.1 Brush Quality:

  So, what makes a Quality Brush? By providing information on the different components used in cosmetic brush construction without first telling you how they affect the quality or value of the brush, we cannot accurately utilize this information when making a purchase. In this section we will provide you with information on why a brush is considered high quality, and conversely, why a brush is low quality.

 For the average consumer, quality is usually initially subjective, as this often focuses on the price, packaging or visual attractiveness of a product. This susceptibility to marketing is what initiates a purchase. However, without an expected level of quality, the consumer will not return as a repeat customer.

 The actual quality of a brush is a combination of manufacturing methods, materials and process control (or QC).  

Manufacturing Methods:

  Cosmetic Brushes are manufactured in one of two ways: Machine or Handmade.

 Machine

  Large scale automated manufacturing has its advantages in terms of low price & mass production but overall reduces the value of the brush due to a poor degree of quality control and sometimes, inferior materials. There does exist some mass manufactured brushes that are quite good but the cost involved in maintaining this level of quality can equal or exceed the cost of a handmade brush, ultimately resulting in an expensive but relatively low value product.

 The bottom line is in order for an automated process to be profitable, by nature it must not provide a high level of quality-control. 

 Handmade

 Handmade brushes are of the highest quality available. The attention to detail is maintained at a level not possible with an automated process. Not only are there inspections at each stage of construction, the materials being utilized are inspected as well. Therefore, Quality Control is maintained at 100% during the entire process.

  Handmade brushes incorporate the years of training and dedication of a master brush craftsman. Each craftsman for instance, needs to measure the length of each brush, count the number of brush windings, check the overall shape of the brush, measure the thickness of the underlying wire, and determine that the brush has enough bristles. This attention to quality is not possible or cost effective with an automated process.

 The manufacturing methods used today, largely affect the overall value of a cosmetic brush. It understandably also influences price. Therefore a good 'quality scale' can be derived from the different hair types and brush constructions that are employed throughout the industry. However, since we all know the price of cosmetic brushes does not necessarily reflect their quality, in understanding the information in this section we can more intelligently gauge the value/quality of a Cosmetic Brush.

3.1 Types of Hair:

 3.2 Natural Hair
  Natural hair cosmetic brushes are usually made from Squirrel hair, Pony hair, Goat hair or Sable and are used mostly in the manufacture of cosmetic brushes such as powder brush, blush brush, contour blending brush and some larger eye-shadow brushes. Other soft cosmetic brushes can also be made from the different types of sables or pahmi hair and are more commonly used for smaller cosmetic brushes such as sable lip brush, medium and smaller sable eye shadow brushes and eyeliner brushes. Natural bristles are also used for slant eyebrow brushes or groomers, etc. For simplicity, the information on the different hair types are provided in that order followed by Synthetic hair types such as PBT (Nylon) & PET (Taklon).

  Only natural hair has a center structure known as the medulla. Medulla is covered by a thick sheath called cortex and is layered by cuticle which is like a shell of scales. The scales and hollows in the cuticle structure are responsible for holding and trapping whatever powders or cosmetics they picked up. So, when you press the brush against the skin, the trappings will release the powder, blush or whatever makeup they have picked up. That is why natural hair is the best and most preferred makeup brush hair type as it is able to deliver and 'apply' makeup more effectively. However, the quality of natural hair makeup brushes varies in quality depending on factors such as hair type, type of cuts or harvesting methods used (virgin, first-cut, second-cut or blunt-cut), climates, etc., which can affect the availability and price.

3.3 Synthetic Hair

  The two most common synthetics used in makeup brushes today are PBT(Nylon) & PET(Taklon). Unlike natural hair, synthetics do not have scales or a cuticle, hence they are not as 'absorbent' and will not trap makeup media the way natural hair will. Synthetic brushes are usually orange or white in color, but can also be dyed a wide array of shades. They are commonly used for concealer brushes or liquid & cream foundation brushes and as a more affordable substitute for Sable. PBT is commonly used for eyebrow brushes as it is harder than PET.

  Unlike natural hair makeup brushes, which get softer and softer with each use, synthetic cosmetic brushes tend to get stiffer with use. With modern technology, the manufacture of synthetic makeup brushes has become more and more sophisticated and may one day give rival to their natural counterparts. As of now, natural hair makeup brushes are still the choice of professional makeup artists.

  With animal rights movements widely spreading across Europe and North America, there is growing pressure against the use of natural hair. Because of this, synthetic hair is becoming increasingly popular. There is an added advantage to synthetics as well – those with allergic reactions to natural hair can safely use synthetic hair brushes.

3.4 Synthetic/Natural Mix

  Synthetic & Natural mixes are simply as the name implies, they consist of a mixture of natural and synthetic hairs. Mixes are produced for a variety of reasons. The most common is to reduce the manufacturing cost of producing brushes using exotic natural hairs. However, a natural/synthetic mix can offer some beneficial properties over a 'pure' brush. When mixed, a brush's durability is increased as well as stiffness & liquid handling ability. The result, when mixed in the right proportion, is the best characteristics of both natural and synthetic hair types.

Squirrel Hair 

Makeup brushes made from squirrel hair are the softest of the brushes using natural hair. This is because squirrel hair is not springy, naturally very fine and relatively thin when compared to sable or other hairs. Although soft squirrel hair is relatively thin, it still has a thick 'belly' has a conical shape, as the tips come to an exceptionally fine point. This unique characteristic of squirrel hair is the very reason why 100% all pure squirrel makeup brushes are extremely soft and most sought after makeup brushes, especially by many professional makeup artists. Canadian squirrel is a slightly thicker, less resilient, considerably shorter hair with more belly; it is usually a variegated yellow and black. Only squirrels with long hair are valuable and suitable for making squirrel makeup brushes. So, we're not talking about the short-haired squirrel you find running around in your backyard. Prized squirrel hair that is used in squirrel powder or blush brush is usually from 'cosmetic-grade' long-hair squirrels. Top grade or higher quality makeup brushes are usually made from squirrel hair and must be hand made to preserve their precious tips.

It is important to note that not all 'Squirrel Makeup Brushes' are 100% pure squirrel cosmetic brushes. Some may be labeled as 'Squirrel' even though they are in fact, Squirrel Mix or Squirrel Blends (see below).

a) Blue and Grey Squirrel Hair
Currently blue squirrel is considered the best among other varieties. The tip of hair is very fine and soft. It has a pleasant feel beyond compare. Consistent quality of hair deems it ideal for powder, blush, finishing brushes. To fulfill the function, mixing it with goat hair for more resilience.

b) Canadian Squirrel hair
The tips of hair are very fine and neatly arranged and it has relatively good resilience. The length of hair is shorter than blue squirrel. it is used for eye shadow and for highlighting. It is expensive and scarce but it is very popular among professional makeup artists because it has an excellent control.

c) Wood Squirrel Hair
Hair characteristics are very similar to weasel. Hair is a bit coarser, but has resilience. It is suitable for eyeshadow brushes, especially for applying liquid-based cosmetics.

d) Pine Squirrel
Hair is very soft and tip is thin and fine but tips are not neatly arranged so it is good for short head brushes. It is excellent for eyeshadow gradation.

e) Kazan Squirrel Hair
The characteristics are very similar to blue squirrel hair but it is softer. It is very expensive due to availability. Suitable for larger eyeshadow and for highlighting.

Differences between blue and grey squirrel hair
1. Blue squirrel hair is more expensive
2. Grey squirrel hair has a low tolerance for static electricity and ultraviolet rays.

Squirrel Mix or Squirrel Blends
 
Squirrel mix cosmetic brushes or squirrel blends makeup brushes are made from squirrel hair that have been mixed with other hair, thereby providing a less expensive alternative to pure squirrel makeup brushes. Cosmetic brushes made from squirrel mix or squirrel blends, can contain a variety of 'mixes' or 'blends' of different types of hair and in different proportions. It is best if you know exactly what they are made from and the proportion of mix or blends in your makeup brush.

Pony Hair

 Pony hair cosmetic brushes are made from pony hair that is usually cylindrical in shape unlike the conical shape of squirrel. This means that pony hair has little or no 'belly' and has less 'pointy' tips compared to squirrel hair or kolinsky. Pony hair brushes are less expensive than squirrel but more expensive than goat hair to make. Like most other hair types, the bulk of the hair comes from Asia, India, Korea and Europe although most pony hair is dressed in Japan or Europe. Pony hair is often mixed with squirrel to reduce cost of manufacturing and is used in squirrel mix makeup brushes.

Goat Hair

Goat hair or 'Capra' is a high quality hair and is the most commonly used type in making cosmetic brushes. It is the least costly to make as the hair is widely available. Like all other hair types used for cosmetic brushes, Goat comes in a wide range of qualities. The softest goat hair is, of course, the first-cut with the tips still intact. This is only used in handmade brushes as an automated process will damage the tips. Lower cut (blunt-cut) Goat hair is used in the manufacture of mass produced low-quality brushes. Goat hair can also be used in squirrel mix makeup brushes to reduce the costs in making pure squirrel makeup brush.

More than 20 different types of hair (different areas of body of both billy-male and nanny-female) are available from the goat. Each region of hair has its own unique characteristics, and therefore is suitable for a wide variety of brush usages.

1) Cervical (neck) region. The best goat hair. It is mainly used for powder and blush brushes as well as Japanese calligraphy brushes. Long, soft and thin.
2) Line of backbone region. Very similar to cervical region, but slightly coarser and denser so it makes easy on color refining for powder. Suitable for powder brushes.
3) Shoulder region. Hair is short, thin, soft, firmer and excellent on color highlighting. Its unique characteristics make it excellent quality hair. Suitable for blush brushes.
4) Thigh region. Hair is coarser than any of the above, but has resilience, therefore suitable for blush brushes.
5) Chin/jaw – Beard (goatee). Long with no resilience
6) Abdominal region. Much shorter
7) Lower back/Pelvic region. Long and coarse
8) Thigh region. Much shorter
9) Tail. Long with resilience

Kolinsky Sable
 
Kolinsky is an animal found in cold regions of Russia and China. It is a species of mink and a member of the weasel family. Makeup brushes made from these are the finest, softest and the most expensive. Each Kolinsky hair has a naturally long fine point tip and a thick 'belly'. As such, kolinsky hair is known for its natural conical shape. No other sable can match the length of the Kolinsky sable with some as long as 2.25 inches. Kolinskies have a springy resilience, hence will 'snap back', when bent, into its original shape much more compared to other types of sables. Although kolinsky sable has spring to it, Kolinsky hair is yet amazingly soft. The color of Kolinsky sable is golden brown.

Weasel Hair

 
The weasel is type genus of the Mustelidae family, and is native to North America, Europe and Asia, but only weasel tail hair from Asia is suitable for makeup brush and other types of brush. This is because only weasel hair from Asia is long and fine enough for this purpose. Weasel hair is commonly used as alternative to kolinsky hair (see Kolinsky Sable above). The hair is usually more reddish compared to the golden brown color of kolinsky sable and is not as long as Kolinsky but it is the longest of all other types.

Red Sable

 Makeup brushes made from red sable, as in its name, have reddish tint. Red sable is one of the widest groups of natural soft hair and can include hair types such as weasel and other less valuable parts of kolinsky. Red sable is slightly less soft than the prized kolinsky sable and has less 'snap'. This might be because the hair used under this category has thinner belly and less pointy tips when compared to the exquisite Kolinsky sable. However, they are still quite valuable.

Sable

 Sables, which are not kolinsky or red sable, are simply called 'Sable'. Sable is the largest category and makeup brushes made of sable can be made from hairs that are seconds from the production of other sable, including kolinsky hair, weasel, red sable or may even contain other hair such as ox hair, pahmi hair or short blunt-cuts of many other hair types, as fillers. Because of this, sable makeup brushes vary greatly. In short, sable makeup brushes, such as sable lip brush and sable eye-shadow brush, should have the same characteristics as kolinsky hair and red sable, but just to a lesser degree. Sable cosmetic brushes should also have 'pointy' tips.

Pahmi Hair

  Pahmi hair, some spelled as pami or pammi, makeup brushes are made from a weasel-like animal but smaller and thinner. The hair is slightly stiffer and the tip is short. Pammi hair or Pahmi hair, however you want to spell it, is often used as filler hence is mixed with other hair types such as weasel (see weasel above) or pony (see pony above) hair. Pahmi hair is relatively inexpensive and when dyed can resemble sable or red sable.

Bristle

  Bristle is naturally coarse hence more commonly used for eyebrow groomers usually with the bristles on one side and comb on the other. Bristle with its naturally stiff texture has a similar feel to synthetic hair such as nylon. However, natural bristles have two characteristics ('flag' and interlocked) that are not present in synthetics. The first characteristic of natural bristles is that they have 'flag' tips which just look like 'split-ends'! Second characteristic typical of natural bristle is its interlocked construction. Natural bristles with little flags indicate that they have been cut hence not hand shaped.

As with sable, the longest natural bristle hair is the most expensive and the finest have long soft flags found in Japan, India, and Europe.

Synthetic bristles are also available but the abovementioned flag and interlocked characteristics are hard to copy. Moreover, they lose their shape over time.

3.1 Brush Usage  

  
   Standard Procedure for applying makeup products to brushes: Apply a light layer of makeup product to brush tip (avoid overloading the brush). Rotate the brush around for a round dome type and apply it evenly to both sides for a flat dome type. When applying it to the face, use the entire surface of the brush evenly so all working areas look well blended and balanced.

1. Powder brush
Place the tip of brush onto the powder lightly, picking up a small amount and shake off excess. Then place the brush on a sponge puff and distribute the powder evenly onto the whole area of the tip. Stroke over the center of the face once, then repeat the same procedure a few times for a glossy finish. Stroke outward from the center, placing the powder on the forehead, cheek, chin & neck so that they have a natural, even finish.

2. Blush brush
Apply brusher evenly to entire surface of brush horizontally and move it along the hair line running direction. Apply brusher from the ear toward the nostril, brush moves to skeletal hollows naturally.

3. Eye shadow brush
Apply eye shadow to both sides of flat surface of the brush evenly. Apply eye shadow from the edge of the eye upward providing gradation.

4. Foundation brush
Place liquid foundation on your palm and blend it in on the both sides of the brush. Apply the right amount of liquid foundation to high side of cheek, temples and chin. Spread it outwards and pat with sponge to make skin smoothly.

5. Eyeliner brush
Take the right amount of eyeliner from its own applicator onto a brush for smooth eyeliner application. Use the brush rather horizontally

6. Eyebrow brush
Apply brow powder to brush vertically and dust off excess on the back of your hand. Hold the brush perpendicular and determine the highest point of eyebrow position and draw the line to form a narrow outer edge.

7. Concealer brush
Apply concealer to the entire surface of brush horizontally. Place it under the eye, dullness of areas, the wings of the nose and any red spots.

8. Lip brush
Apply the lip liner fully to the both side of the brush horizontally. Hold the brush horizontally and apply it with one stroke by outlining using the edge of the brush. First decide where you want to draw the line of the lower side of the lip. Then place the tip of the brush at the corner of the lip and join the line where previously drawn. For the upper lip, start at the corner and draw it to the highest point by gradually raising the brush up vertically and draw it horizontally back to the center from the top.

3.1 Brush Care

All your cosmetic brushes should be cleaned at least once a month. Brushes used to apply lipstick and concealer require more frequent cleaning than brushes used for powder products. The following will help you keep your brushes in top condition:

Daily care:

  Powder Brushes:
After each use, dust off the excess powder & wipe gently with a tissue.

  Lip brush, shadow brush:
Wipe gently with tissue. If you wipe it every time, you'll seldom need to wash it.

Monthly care:

 When your brush contains build-up, wash it with warm water by dipping up to the ferrule. Gently squeeze out the make-up while the brush is under water. You can also wash it with fragrance-free soap. Lather by combing in one direction with your fingers. Wash the head by gently retaining the shape of the brush hair and not flaring it out into a fountain shape, stroking toward the tip, and rinse it thoroughly. Place the brush on a clean towel to dry.